Third stop: Fenghuang

We took a side trip to Fenghuang (凤凰), the name of which means Phoenix in Chinese. It is a picturesque town by the Tuo River (沱江) in the western part of Hunan Province. Ironically, it is also on the verge of losing its authentic flavor thanks to the tourism development there.

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Fenghuang


Fenghuang


Fenghuang

As luck would have it, not only did we get a warm sunny day there, it was also the April 8th (on the Lunar Calendar) Festival of "Jumping Flowers" (跳花节) of the Miao minority (苗族). Local people dressed in their native clothing and headdresses crowded the river in canoes and boats. The Miao women's headdresses are something to beheld -- they are laced with intricately hand-made silver decorations.


Headdress

More often than not, there is a pretty Miao girl or woman under the headdress.


Miao Girl


Miao Girl


Miao Girl

Everyone seemed to be in high spirit in this festivity, a little playing with the water is fun enough.


Miao Woman

Well, not everyone, some are more nonchalant than others.


Boy dozing off in boat

The city walls and city gates are well preserved in Fenghuang.


City Wall


City Gate

But the most unique building are the stilted houses (吊脚楼) -- houses built on stilts that extend into the water, popping up the houses above the river.


Stilted Houses


Stilted Houses


Stilted Houses

There are some historical residences preserved as well, giving us a glimpse into the daily lives of local (rich) people.


Inside a historical house

However, Fenghuang has also become very touristy, although it hasn't lost all its charm. At night, all the nights come on and the whole town glows.


Night scene in Fenghuang


Night scene in Fenghuang


Night scene in Fenghuang


Night scene in Fenghuang

We also took a side trip to the Miao Great Wall or the Southern Great Wall. Not as grand or ancient as the Northern Great Wall, the Miao Great Wall is impressive nontheless and arguably more picturesque.


Cannon on the Great Wall


Miao Great Wall


Miao Great Wall


Miao Great Wall


Miao Great Wall


Valley below the Great Wall

Because there were so many sights to see, I did not get as many bird pictures as I wanted. I got a couple new birds while climbing the Miao Great Wall:


Brown-breasted Bulbul (黄臀鹎)


Brown-breasted Bulbul (黄臀鹎)


Cinereous Tit (山雀)

In the city, I saw a White Wagtail, not a new bird for me as I had seen it in India, but this time I got a closer look.


White Wagtail (白鹡鸰)

In the river, there were several Great Cormorants (普通鸕鶿) resting on a raft. They are most certainly domesticated to catch fish.


Great Cormorant (普通鸕鶿)

I did get one new bird in the city. They are nesting under the bridge and flying above the river, dipping occasionally to catch fish. Their shape and demeanor remind me of our American Dipper. These are elusive birds and I did not get a good picture, but they are an exciting bird to watch.


Plumbeous Water Redstart (鉛色水鴝)

Click the following links to go to Previous Stop: Changsha and Next Stop: Xi'an



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